Hackett Correspondent Range S/S 2011

It has been far too long between my posts. Though, being a freelance artist and writer means that you’re either between jobs (or what the rest of you out there would simply call being unemployed) or stupidly busy. I’m lucky having been the latter. At least for the moment. This however hasn’t stopped me entirely from keeping an eye on what’s happening in the world of gentlemen’s fashion, and I must say I’m quite excited about Hackett’s new Correspondent range launched this season.

They call it a collection inspired by the globetrotting gentleman … features four-pocket safari jackets, light-weight blazers and shirts. Accessories include linen scarves, leather trimmed luggage and Panama hats.

Well if that’s not exciting, what is? So for the days when one isn’t crawling on a dirty rehearsal floor in a basement of an opera house, or when one isn’t forced to sit in a boring hotel room writing in solitude, on can at least look decent. And the advantage of this range is that it can be a bit crumpled. You know, to get that authentic correspondent look. Seeing your crumpled but distinguished looks no one will raise an eyebrow apart from when thinking “…hm…I wonder where he got that…”.

 

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A double-breasted suit? Really?

Can one really wear double-breasted suits if one isn’t the Prince of Wales, under 50 and not a puffy banker? If you would have asked me last week I wouldn’t even have bothered answering such a silly question. Today though, I’m slowly warming to the idea that, maybe, it doesn’t need to look that bad. And it’s all thanks to Jeremy Hackett. As always. Once again has he found a classic, gentlemanly way to make the double-breasted suit look good. Or not just good, great.

He justifies it with saying

… Now it is more softly tailored and more relaxed, the shoulder is narrower and the coat length shorter, somehow it looks new and fresh and distinctly smarter and I believe there is a whole generation of men who have never worn this style and therefore are unaware of its historical baggage.

“Its historical baggage” referring to the awful look we recognize as the sleazy-stock-market man of the early -80s or the estate agent look of the early -90s (they have always been a bit slow the estate agents, haven’t they?). And who knows? Maybe Mr. Hackett will once again manage to squeeze in an article of clothing that not many other designers have payed attention to for quite some time, and we will feel that we cannot live without in a year or two. Because to be perfectly honest here, a double-breasted suit really can look quite dapper, wouldn’t you say? It is a shame that it has been out of fashion for so long and I’m really looking forward to get one sooner rather than later.

I guess this is what appeals to me with really good quality gents fashion. The timelessness of it all. That there are garments that can be brought back, reinvented, styled up and then we think “gosh, why did it take so long for this to come back?”. Most of Jeremy Hackett’s clothes are like that. Like if you buy a suit on Savile Row. You know that it can be kept for ages and it won’t look tarnished or as if you’re completely out of touch with fashion. Rather the opposite. These are suits, shirts, shoes or what-have-you that are almost over and above fashion.

However, I must ad that the double-breasted club blazer, you know the dark one with brass buttons galore, just isn’t convincing yet. Not even the Hackett ones. I know Mr. Hackett himself thinks it the most basic garment in any gentleman’s wardrobe. I’m not convinced though. But, I’m looking forward to how he can reinvent it! It might happen this year or it might be another ten, but I know that if anyone will make it happen it is Jeremy Hackett.